Day 30 - Mardie

Last night we sat around the camp kitchen and "talked crap with strangers ". Rog's words, not mine!

Up and off this morning to the Dome for breakfast. It was the old nurses quarters and has been tastefully refurbished. After placing my order I commented on the lack of peanut butter at many stops. The lady serving us said I could take a few extra for the road. Excellent!

Stopped by one of the wharfs holding yards to look at the salt stack, however could not find the pepper stack.

Stopped at both Whim Creek and Roebourne for a look.

Next we headed for Karratha.  Don't be deceived by the little road in. It's an oasis. We then rode out to Dampier, now famous as the home of Red dog. On the way out we watched a couple of ore trains. One which we think was about 3km long. 

We decided to stop at Fortescue River Roadhouse for the night. We met a chap from Japan (Shigera Nagaiwa) who was riding around Australia. His son was washed off rocks at Carnarvon (April '07). This was a pilgrimage ride for him. A great few hours with his broken english and Google translator.

Day 29 - Port Hedland

Woke Katherine to thank her for her hospitality before heading back to the Roebuck Roadhouse and turning right onto The Great Northern Hwy and heading towards Port Hedland.

The highway south was in much better condition than the 100kms east which was badly effected by the big wet that Broome had this year.

The wind is still persisting from the East. We were lucky that today's ride was predominantly west. We arrived at Sandfire Roadhouse for lunch and decided to continue to Port Hedland arriving at around 4:30. I had to use the bladder to get to Sandfire and rolled into Port Hedland on reserve without using the bladder. On fuelling up I put 14.75ltrs in the 15ltr tank. Close!

Saw too many wandering cattle today which kept us on a constant lookout.

Also saw a lot of bikes heading East. Poor buggers. All the vans heading east were having a hard slog into the wind. One couple we were chatting to at Sandfire are friends of very close friends from Glengarry, Vic. Very small world.

As we had a late finish today we'll tour Port Hedland tomorrow morning.

Day 28 - Broome

First stop today was the wharf to see where that 11.73m of water went to.

Back down the Derby Hwy and on to the Great Northern Hwy which continue the Savannah Way towards Broome. Only stop today was at the Roebuck Roadhouse for coffee. Apparently the prison van also stops here for snacks, but only for the two officers in the front.

Onto the Broome Hwy and Cable Beach. This brings us to the end of the Savannah Way across the top of Australia. While we dodged the unsealed parts we would have completed at least the 3700kms distance of the Way.

Cable Beach sand and water are magnificent. We spent half an hour chatting to a teacher and a few of his students about our trip etc. All keen for knowledge. A good chat.

Next it was a visit to the Broome Historical Museum.

After a run around the town we settled at Matso's Broome Brewery where we dined with Katherine, our host for the night. Tried the Mango beer. Not bad. A great time spent filling in the missing blanks of her parents before she was born. All good stories of PNG and Friday nights at the Leagues Club.

Day 27 - Derby

That bloody tight fisted Scotsman followed us to Halls Creek. The wind howled like a Banshee all night, which gave us fitful sleep.

Bladdered up for the 290km trip as there isn't any roadhouse between the two towns. We had the wind predominantly as a tale wind for most of the trip and I only used the bladder fuel as a precaution 20km out of town. Almost add an extra 50% to my mileage due to the wind!

Stopped off for a look at Mary Pool and took the old road out over the causeway. When we got to the other side we found a gate and a road closed sign. We should have twigged when we saw the huge boulders at either end, but hell, plenty of room for a couple of bikes to navigate.

We hit Fitzroy Crossing just in time for a dim sim for lunch. We decided to fuel up and make for Derby. We checked out the Boab Prison Tree before heading to the Derby Wharf with a high tide of 11.73m!

Final stop was Woollies for the discounted dinner items. All good for today with 545km under the belt. 

Day 26 - Halls Creek

Last nights wind was strong enough to take a tener from a tight fisted Scotsman. We had our tents up against a small rise that protected us, but not from the noise.

 
After visiting the dam and the bottom of the wall we headed into Kununurra for breakfast and fuel.
I don't want to harp on it, but it's one of only few photos I took today. Have a look at my peanut butter and Vegemite on wholemeal toast! It turned up as a sandwich. Yes, the yellow is a lump of butter! I even explained to them how to make it! I saw the cook wander out to the shop section to get a jar of peanut butter. What the hell is this country coming to when you can't get even the basic of breakfasts? 

The south-easterly wind (up to 50kmph) played merry hell for us all day again. First fuel was at Doon Doon, where I clocked over 10,000kms so far. Rog was a bit over 11k. Not much at Doon Doon, but what there was, was bloody expensive.

Onward to Warmun for lunch and fuel. Both these stops required me to leave either phone or licence before they'd turn the pump on. Actually expected more of this on the trip.

Tonight we're at Halls Creek caravan park where the manager offered to lock our bikes in their shed away from opportunistic locals. We accepted.

Wandered over to the local rubberdy for dinner. Lo and behold they have Matso's on tap. I've never seen ginger beer on tap before. A bit exe at $9:50 a middie. Tonights taster was Hit the Toad, a nice drop, but as a Tooheys Old drinker, last nights Bishops Best has my heart.

A bush fire took hold at the back of the pub that lit up the night sky well. This was one of hundreds we've seen across the NT and WA so far.

Day 25 - Lake Argyle

Up and off for walk down to the Hot Springs at Katherine before riding out to the Gorge.

Back into town to fuel up and head off west. Goodbye to the Stuart and hello to the Victoria Highway. Still on the A1 around the block and the Savannah Way across the top.

Stopped at the Buntine monument before riding onto the Victorian River Roadhouse for lunch. Without doubt the best escarpments to date. The Victoria river is bloody big.

Because of our late start out of Katherine we were only aiming for Timber Creek until we realised that we get an extra hour and a half when we cross the boarder. So we refuelled, checked out The Nackeroos monument and escarpment and continued west to the boarder and Lake Argyle which was at the limit of my tank from Timber Creek.

A good ride in warm weather. The only downside being a south easterly cross wind that blew all day.
We finished the day with live entertainment and chilli ginger beer!

Look closely at the dam wall, there's a car driving across it. It's a bloody big wall!

Day 24 - Katherine

First stop today was only 6 kms away at NT Motorcycles for tyres and oil change. I got a new rear and Rog both tyres changed for road tyres and oil. Left Darwin @ 11:15 headed for Katherine.

Next it was down to Adelaide River Hotel and another bloody big croc. Around the corner to a beautifully maintained war cemetery.

From here it was a clear run into Katherine for the night.