Day 35 - Perth lay day

Last night was full of wind and rain but Rog and I slept like babies. A smart decision to take a room. Today's weather hasn't been much better.

Dropped the bike off around 8:30 to Savage Suzuki for a set of tyres and an oil change. A new set of Pirelli Night Riders. These replaced a Bridgestone on the front from Alice Springs with 8500kms and a Dunlop D404 on the back from Darwin with 5100kms. Have had the night riders  before on this bike and currently have them on my little Cafe racer and very happy with them. While both tyres still had meat on them, I didn't believe that they'd get me across the Nullarbor to Adelaide. This set should get me back to Sydney which is approx 6000kms inclusive of the run to Kalgoorlie and other meanderings.

I took a little SV650 loaner for the day as we toured around the town in and out of rain and wind all day.

We called into the Whipper Snapper distillery (which is owned by a mates nephew). Thanks for the heads up Phil. We were given a good tour by Mark and ended with a sniffing (no tasting due to riding).

Looking for a better day tomorrow weather wise as we head to an old school mates place at Australind.

Day 34 - Perth

What started as a damp night became a dry morning with all washing dry and no need to hang the line behind the bikes.

We still couldn't get a handle on the weather other than it was going to be big, wet and windy.

Not far out of Geraldton the wind started. A bloody strong Northerly blow straight up our arse. I thought it was about 50kmph but Rog corrected me with "shit that wind was at least 80!" Whatever it was it provided an interesting day's ride with the wheel often wanting to go in a different direction to the top end of the bike.

We took the advise from a few of the facebook commentators and took the Indian Ocean Drive. It was great to get a few curves into the ride.

We checked out The Pinnacles and the amazing white sand dunes.

We rode into Perth to our donga about 3pm. Around 4pm the sky started to go brown from the dust being blown in.

We headed out to catch up with a friend of Rog's and left just before the bad weather hit.

Ordered in pizza and took it easy.

Day 33 - Geraldton

Pancakes for breakfast this morning from a mix we think we bought somewhere in Queensland washed down with a good black tea. No time for a layback start today as we wanted to get to Geraldton and also stop along the way.

Yesterday we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn for the fourth and final time. Today it was the 26th parallel, the defining line between the NT and SA. Leaving the Gascoyne and into the Mid West.
On leaving Carnarvon we encountered goats. I assume they are road aware as there was no goat road kill and they shied away as we passed.

The land went from red soil and sparse grasses to almost cream sand and rocks. We stopped at the Woomeraal Roadhouse for our morning coffee, then stopped by the Gladstone Scenic lookout before turning off towards Shark Bay to check out the stromatolites.

Back to the highway and onward to Geraldton. (No we didn't do Monkey Mia or the coast road from Kalbarri, next trip) We passed through what appeared to be the remains of an old pine forest. Quiet strange to see. Then it was semi open wheat country.

We finished with about 550kms travelling. Everyone we met was telling us about the raging storm that's due tomorrow arvo along the west coast. Up to 100kmph winds and torrential downpour. 

Having trouble validating it all, but to play it safe we've booked a donga in Perth for tomorrow and Friday night, not far from where I'm getting an oil change.

Dinner was at The Geraldton Hotel built in 1862. Steak night, free drink and quiz (which Rog said we could have easily won if we participated). 

Day 32 - Carnarvon

After Rog tried his hand as a barrister we headed off. We turned off to have a coffee at Coral Bay. What a lovely little Bay and community.

Back out on the road and turn right back onto the North West Coastal Hwy and say farewell to the Warlu Way. We stopped at Minilya Bridge Roadhouse for fuel and a Chiko roll lunch.

Finally rode into Carnarvon mid afternoon. The One Mile Wharf, the Space and Technology Museum and the Carnarvon Hotel to finish off the day.

Day 31 - Exmouth

We said goodbye to Shigera and wished him well on his journey north. We also said goodbye to the Pilbara and hello to the Gascoyne. We're still travelling along the NH1 known as the North West Coastal Hwy and part of the Warlu Way.

 
I'm continually amazed at the ever changing landscape and vegetation.

First stop was Nanutarra Roadhouse for fuel, coffee, leg stretch and a break from the wind. Down the road over the RFDS emergency airstrip and turn right onto Burkett Road for the run into Exmouth.

This is the only road I've been on where the speed limit is 110kmph, all have been hwys. We stopped at the Potshot memorial which overlooks the gulf before continuing on the last 20kms into town. 

Home of the big prawn.

Day 30 - Mardie

Last night we sat around the camp kitchen and "talked crap with strangers ". Rog's words, not mine!

Up and off this morning to the Dome for breakfast. It was the old nurses quarters and has been tastefully refurbished. After placing my order I commented on the lack of peanut butter at many stops. The lady serving us said I could take a few extra for the road. Excellent!

Stopped by one of the wharfs holding yards to look at the salt stack, however could not find the pepper stack.

Stopped at both Whim Creek and Roebourne for a look.

Next we headed for Karratha.  Don't be deceived by the little road in. It's an oasis. We then rode out to Dampier, now famous as the home of Red dog. On the way out we watched a couple of ore trains. One which we think was about 3km long. 

We decided to stop at Fortescue River Roadhouse for the night. We met a chap from Japan (Shigera Nagaiwa) who was riding around Australia. His son was washed off rocks at Carnarvon (April '07). This was a pilgrimage ride for him. A great few hours with his broken english and Google translator.

Day 29 - Port Hedland

Woke Katherine to thank her for her hospitality before heading back to the Roebuck Roadhouse and turning right onto The Great Northern Hwy and heading towards Port Hedland.

The highway south was in much better condition than the 100kms east which was badly effected by the big wet that Broome had this year.

The wind is still persisting from the East. We were lucky that today's ride was predominantly west. We arrived at Sandfire Roadhouse for lunch and decided to continue to Port Hedland arriving at around 4:30. I had to use the bladder to get to Sandfire and rolled into Port Hedland on reserve without using the bladder. On fuelling up I put 14.75ltrs in the 15ltr tank. Close!

Saw too many wandering cattle today which kept us on a constant lookout.

Also saw a lot of bikes heading East. Poor buggers. All the vans heading east were having a hard slog into the wind. One couple we were chatting to at Sandfire are friends of very close friends from Glengarry, Vic. Very small world.

As we had a late finish today we'll tour Port Hedland tomorrow morning.